linium.

[467] "Marco Polo," p. 92, ed. Yule, speaking of the
ladies of Caramania in the thirteenth century, says they
produced exquisite needlework on silk stuffs of divers
colours, with figures of birds, beasts, trees, and
flowers. They worked hangings for the noblemen's use, as
well as cushions, pillows, quilts, and all sorts of
things.

[468] Lampridius ("Antonin. Heliogab." cap. xxvi. see
Bock, p. 129) says, in the life of Heliogabalus, that
table-covers were embroidered for the emperor,
representing the dishes which were to be placed upon
them at the festal table of this epicure.

[469] See the screen on the Assyrian bas-relief in the
British Museum, placed round the back of the throne on
which the king is seated. This is apparently a frame on
which hangings are fixed.

[470] See inventory Of Henry VIII.'s goods, &c., I. Ed.
VI. (Bib.) Harl. 1419, quoted by Felix Summerley in his
"Handbook of Hampton Court."

[471] I would add, "except that which is consecrated by
time or sentiment."

CHAPTER IX.

DRESS.

"Whatever clothing she displays,
From Tyre or Cos, that clothing praise;
If gold show forth the artist's skill,
Call her than gold more precious still;
Or if she choose a coarse attire,
E'en coarseness, worn by her, admire."

OVID, "Ars Amat." ii. 297, 300 (Yates, p. 180).

Having glanced at the decoration of the house, I must now proceed to
say a few words on Dress. Semper, Labarte, and Sir Digby Wyatt all
take it for granted that the Art of Dress preceded all other arts.

Every ancient record shows how early decoration of dress by needlework
began, and how far it had gone; and when we read of festal
hospitalities and marriage gifts, embroidered garments are invariably
named. Solomon in all his glory, though he praised the lily, yet shone
in splendid apparel. The Greeks refined the gold, and painted the
lily.

[Illustration: Pl. 50.
Italian Knight dressed for conquest, by Gentile da Fabriano.
Academia at Florence.]

As soon as dress became an art, and not merely an acknowledged
necessity for warmth and decency, I see no reason to deny that the
same decorative genius that embroidered the garment might at the same
time have imagined the carving of the chair and the inlaying of the
sword and bow; but as regards the precedence of the arts, we can only