uses some specimens of old secular work--few
earlier than the date of Henry VIII. Gothic dress is very rare, except
the ecclesiastical. But from the fifteenth century till now, there
remains enough to exercise our curiosity, our artistic tastes, and our
power of selection and comparison; and hints for beauty and grace may
often be found and adapted to the style of our own day.

Planche's "Dictionary of Dress," and Ferrario's "Costumi antichi e
moderni di tutti i Popoli," are great works on dress and costume, and
both are splendidly illustrated and worthy of study.

FOOTNOTES:

[472] Elsewhere I have spoken of dress being continually
offered to the images of the pagan gods in the temples.
Herodotus (ii. p. 159) tells us that Pharaoh Necho
offered to the Apollo of Branchidae the dress he happened
to have worn at both his great successes (the victory of
Magdalus and the taking of Cadytis). In the procession
of Ptolemy Philadelphus the colossal statue of Bacchus
and his nurse Nysa were draped, the former in a shawl,
the latter in a tunic variegated with gold. See Yates,
"Textrinum Antiquorum," p. 369. Old clothes were sent as
votive offerings to temples, and inscriptions recording
lists of such decorations are still extant. See Appendix
1. The Greeks honoured the menders and darners, and
called them "healers of clothes." Bluemner, p. 202.

[473] Men in former days preferred to show by their
dress their station and the company they belonged to.
Guilds had their ceremonial dresses, and their
"liveries," and their cognizances, and considered it an
honour to wear them. See Rock, "Church of our Fathers,"
ii. p. 115.

[474] Aristotle, De Mirab. Auscult., xcvi.

[475] Asterius, Bishop of Amasis, in the fourth century,
describes both hangings and dress embroidered with
lions, panthers, huntsmen, woods, and rocks; while the
Church adopted pictorial representations of Christian
subjects. Sidonius alludes to furniture of like
character. See Yule, "Marco Polo," p. 68.

[476] "Katalog der Theodor Graf'schen Fuende in AEgypten,"
von Dr. J. Karabacek, Wien, 1883.

[477] Semper, "Der Stil," p. 28.

[478] Unfortunately this axiom may be reversed. Taste
only belongs to a small class, and mankind follows it,
whether good or bad, if it only be the fashion.

CHAPTER X.

ECCLESIASTICAL EMBR