ion, p. lv.

[256] Roger de Wendover, "Chronica," t. iv., ed. Coxe;
also Yates, "Textrinum Antiquorum," pp. 243, 244.

[257] In the twelfth century. Semper, i. p. 38.

[258] See illustration from the portrait of Sultan
Mahomet II., by Gentil Bellini. _Ante_, p. 146, Plate
33.

[259] See Semper, p. 157.

[260] The Sicilian type of design in silk-weaving was
carried into Germany about the end of the second period.
We are informed by Auberville that there existed at that
time a manufacture of ecclesiastical stuffs at Leipzig,
from which he gives us fine examples.

[261] See Bock's "Liturgische Gewaender," vol. ii. Taf.
xxxiii. The pattern is twelfth century "metal work,"
embroidered in gold.

[262] See Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians," iii., pl.
xvi.; v., pl. xxxiv. In general, a scarf floats from the
prow or from the oars.

[263] The Crusaders carried away splendid booty from the
towns they took and ransacked. As it was the great
gathering-place of all Eastern and Western nations,
Jerusalem was a mart for rich merchandise from Persia,
Arabia, Syria, and Phoenicia, till the times of the
Latin kings. Antioch, as well as Jerusalem, yielded the
richest plunder. Matthew Paris (a contemporary
historian), speaking of what was taken at Antioch, 1098,
says, "At the division of costly vessels, crosses,
weavings, and silken stuffs, every beggar in the
crusading army was enriched." Alexandria, as early as
the middle of the sixth century, A.D., had been the
depot for the silken stuffs of Libya and Morocco. Here
is a wide area opened to us for suggestions as to the
origin and traditions of patterns in silk textile art.
See Bock's "Liturgische Gewaender," vol. i. pp. 29, 30.

[264] Rock, Introduction, p. ccxlviii, and p. 268, No.
8710.

[265] The weaving of inscriptions in textiles is not a
Saracenic invention. Pliny says it was a custom among
the Parthians. See Rock's "Textile Fabrics," p. lxi.

"In allusion to lettered garments, Ausonius thus
celebrates Sabina, of whom we otherwise know nothing:--

"'They who both webs and verses weave,
The first to thee, oh chaste Minerva, leave;
The latter to the Muses they devote.
To me, Sabina, it appears a sin
To separate two things so near akin;
So I have writ th