," pp. 278,
373, 406. The Persians produce their deep yellow from
the skin of the pomegranate, by boiling it in alum.
Major Murdoch Smith describes the Persian processes for
dyeing patterns red and black in textiles. The Italian
women dye their own dresses in the pomegranate yellow;
also in turmeric yellow, and other vegetable dyes.

[310] Pliny, "Natural History," xxii. 3. Unfortunately,
Pliny seldom condescends to give us the recipes for
dyeing processes.

[311] Logan's "Scottish Garb."

[312] See Elton's "Origins of English History."

[313] The Cretan tincture was extracted from a plant
which Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Pliny respectively
name. The last calls it the _Phycos thalassion_. This
was not a sea-weed, but a lichen--probably the same from
which the orchid purple of modern art is prepared. See
Birdwood, "Indian Arts," i. p. 238.

[314] The same scale of colour varies as much on the
different textiles employed, as it does from the colours
extracted from other chemicals. Silk, wool, cotton,
flax, give very different results. The colouring matter
may be identical, yet you cannot place them side by side
without being aware that they may be repellant, instead
of harmonious in tone. The scale is sometimes removed to
another pitch, and they will no more harmonize than
instruments that have not been attuned to the same
diapason. See Redgrave's Report on Textile Fabrics.

[315] With the changes in colouring materials has arisen
the necessity for discovering new mordants. The gas
colour of madder is exactly the same chemically as that
extracted from the vegetable, but the old mordant does
not fix it, and it changes very soon to a dull
blackish-purple hue.

[316] Pliny, "Natural History," ix. 12. The most
unnatural, and the most disagreeable dyes, are the
magentas. Sir G. Birdwood tells us that the Maharajah of
Cashmere has adopted a most efficient plan for the
suppression of magenta dyes within his dominions--first,
a duty of 45 per cent. on entering the country, and at a
certain distance within the frontier, they are
confiscated and destroyed.

CHAPTER VI.

_Part 1._

STITCHES.

Stitches in needlework correspond to the touches of the pencil or
brush in drawing or painting, or to the strokes of the chisel in
sculpture. The nee