ork."

In painting, as in sculpture, the first idea, as well as the last
touch, must come from the same head and hand. But in needlework it is
not so. The pattern is the result of tradition. It is almost always
simply a variation of old forms, altered and renewed by surrounding
circumstances and sudden or gradual periods of change.

However much the design may alter, rising often to the highest point
of decorative art, and as often falling back to the lowest and most
meaningless repetitions and imitations, the _stitches_ themselves vary
but little. The same are to be found in Egyptian and Greek specimens,
and the classical names are those used by mediaeval writers, and have
come down to us, "floating like bubbles on the waves of time."

Sir George Birdwood[317] thinks that every kind of stitch is found in
traditional Indian work. I confess that I have not been able hitherto
to trace any of the "mosaic" stitches to India, nor do we ever see
them in Chinese or Japanese embroidery, which shows every other
variety. They are, however, occasionally found in Egyptian work.

The following is a list of stitches, under the nomenclature of
classical, Roman and mediaeval authors:--

Opus Phrygionium or Phrygium. Passing or metal thread work.
Opus Pulvinarium. Shrine or cushion work.
Opus Plumarium. Plumage or feather work.
Opus Consutum. Cut work.
Opus Araneum or Filatorium. Net or lace work.
Opus Pectineum. Tapestry or combed work.

Here are two English lists of stitches; their quaintness must be my
excuse for copying them. The first is from Taylor, the water-poet's
"Praise of the Needle" (sixteenth century):--

"Tent work, raised work, laid work, prest work,
Net work, most curious pearl or rare Italian cut work,
Fine fern stitch, finny stitch, new stitch, and chain stitch,
Brave bred stitch, fisher stitch, Irish stitch, and queen's stitch,
The Spanish stitch, rosemary stitch, and maw stitch,
The smarting whip stitch, back stitch, and the cross stitch.--
All these are good, and these we must allow,
And these are everywhere in practice now."

The second list is from Rees' "Cyclopaedia" (Stitches), 1819:--

"Spanish stitch,
Tent stitch on the finger,
Tent stitch in the tent or frame,
Irish stitch,
Fore stitch,
Gold stitch,
Twist stitch,
Fern stitch,