] Semper, "Der Stil," i. p. 138.

[158] Yates, pp. 79, 91, 93, 99, 102, 445. Lanae Albae.

"The first, Apulia's; next is Parma's boast;
And the third fleece Altinum has engrossed."

Martial, xiv. Ep. 155.

Martial also speaks of the matchless Tarentine togae, a
present from Parthenius:--

"With thee the lily and the privet pale
Compared, and Tibur's whitest ivory fail;
The Spartan swan, the Paphian doves deplore
Their hue, and pearls on the Erythrean shore."

Martial, viii. Ep. 28.

[159] The sheep of Tarentum, from the days of the Greek
colonists, were famed, as they are still, for the warm
brown tints on their black wool. Pliny says that this is
caused by the weed _fumio_, on which they browsed.
Swinburne says, in his "Travels in the Two Sicilies,"
that there the wool is so tinged by the plant now called
_fumolo_, which grows on the coast.

[160] See Bluemner's "Technologie," p. 92; also "Comptes
Rendus de la Commission Imperiale Archeologique" of St.
Petersburg, 1881; also the Catalogue Raisonnee of Herr
Graf'schen's Egyptian Collection of Textiles at Vienna.

[161] See Pliny's "Natural History," viii. 74, Sec. 191.
Tanaquil is credited with the first invention of the
seamless coat or cassock.

[162] The Gauls in Britain wove plaids or tartans. See
Rock, p. xii; Bluemner, pp. 152-54; Birdwood, p. 286.

[163] Pliny, "Natural History," book viii., 73, 74.

[164] "Georgics," iv. 334; Yates, p. 35.

[165] "Comptes Rendus de la Commission Imperiale
Archeologique," St. Petersburg, 1881. Much of this
Gobelin weaving has lately been found in Egypt. See
"Katalog der Teodor Graf'schen Fuende in AEgypten," von
Dr. J. Karabacek.

[166] Semper considers that the famous Babylonian and
Phrygian stuffs were all woollen, and that gold was
woven or embroidered on them. See "Der Stil," i. p. 138.

[167] Worcester cloth was forbidden to the Benedictines
by a Chapter of that Order at Westminster Abbey in 1422,
as being fine enough for soldiers, and therefore too
good for monks. See Rock's Introduction, p. lxxviii.

[168] Both these fabrics are represented in Egyptian and
Greek fragments, and are equally well preserved.

[169] Boyd Dawkins, "Early Man