r no worship, at least take pleasure in examining the
ancient statues. Some of these however receive more definite honours:
they are painted red and modest offerings of flowers and fruit are
laid before them. Yet the respect shown to particular images seems due
not to old tradition but to modern and wrongheaded interpretations of
their meaning. Thus at Boroboedoer the relief which represents the
good tortoise saving a shipwrecked crew receives offerings from women
because the small figures on the tortoise's back are supposed to be
children. The minor forms of Indian mythology still flourish. All
classes believe in the existence of raksasas, boetas (bhutas) and
widadaris (vidyadharis), who are regarded as spirits similar to the
Jinns of the Arabs. Lakshmi survives in the female genius believed
even by rigid Mohammedans to preside over the cultivation of rice and
the somewhat disreputable sect known as Santri Birahis are said to
adore devas and the forces of nature.[451] Less obvious, but more
important as more deeply affecting the national character, is the
tendency towards mysticism and asceticism. What is known as
ngelmoe[452] plays a considerable part in the religious life of the
modern Javanese. The word is simply the Arabic 'ilm (or knowledge)
used in the sense of secret science. It sometimes signifies mere magic
but the higher forms of it, such as the _ngelmoe peling_, are said
to teach that the contemplative life is the way to the knowledge of
God and the attainment of supernatural powers. With such ngelmoe
is often connected a belief in metempsychosis, in the illusory nature
of the world, and in the efficacy of regulating the breath. Asceticism
is still known under the name of tapa and it is said that there are
many recluses who live on alms and spend their time in meditation. The
affinity of all this to Indian religion is obvious, although the
Javanese have no idea that it is in any way incompatible with orthodox
Islam.

Indian religion, which in Java is represented merely by the influence
of the past on the present, is not dead in Bali[453] where, though
much mixed with aboriginal superstitions, it is still a distinct and
national faith, able to hold its own against Mohammedanism and
Christianity.[454]

The island of Bali is divided from the east coast of Java only by a
narrow strait but the inhabitants possess certain characters of their
own. They are more robust in build, their language is distinct from
Ja