r "Nature," says Emerson, "is nascent,
infant. When we are dizzied with the arithmetic of the savant toiling to
compute the length of her line, the return of her curve, we are steadied
by the perception that a great deal is doing; that all seems just begun:
remote aims are in active accomplishment. We can point nowhere to
anything final; but tendency appears on all hands: planet, system,
constellation, total Nature, is growing like a field of maize in July;
is becoming somewhat else; is in rapid metamorphosis.... Says Nature 'I
have not arrived at any end; I grow, I grow.'"

* * * * *

It was a great relief to gain the open air after the long and saddening
exploration of the Catacombs. Some three or four miles on the road
towards Ostia we passed some very old monuments and tombs, and also the
ruins of ancient residences. All around is an uncultivated wilderness, a
few fine but rusty iron gates alone remaining to show their past pomp
and grandeur as suburban residences.

After passing these, we came suddenly on a splendid, newly built
Cathedral. It was indeed surprising to find so large and handsome a
structure far away from any town or village--completely isolated among
the dead! It was the Basilica S. Paolo Fuori le Mura, which was built in
1847 in this uninhabited spot, on the site of a venerable and
interesting church burnt in 1823, which had been founded by Constantine
to mark the grave of St. Paul. The present edifice was rebuilt under the
eye of Pius IX., who was to have been buried here. It is some four
hundred feet long, and is divided into fine aisles and noble pillars of
Baveno marble and granite in single blocks, two of which support an arch
over the altar, dedicated to the sister of Honorius, who completed the
former church, and whose design has been copied in the present one,
which also contains copies of the old mosaics by Giotto's pupils. The
front is likewise a copy, and when completed is to be adorned by a great
mosaic costing 30,000 scudi. The timber roof is richly carved and gilt;
and the frescoes in the nave are ornamented with mosaic heads of all the
popes, chiefly modern, from the government studios, but there are a few
ancient ones among them. It seems as though the whole civilized world
had united to do honour to this noble edifice and the great Apostle in
memory of whom it was erected. The alabaster pillars of the high altar
were presented by the infidel Pacha of