hat they are not much to be trusted in
this last point, without the eye of the Master or his
servant to oversee them. Another servant gives the
passenger his private chamber, and kindles his fire, the
third pulls off his boots and makes them clean' (these
two servants would be wearing aprons). 'Then the Host or
Hostess visits him, and if he will eat with the Host, or
at a common table with the others, his meal will cost
him sixpence, or in some places but fourpence, yet this
course is less honourable and not used by Gentlemen; but
if he will eat in his chamber' (he will retain his hat
within the house), 'he commands what meats he will
according to his appetite, and as much as he thinks fit
for him and his company, yea, the kitchen is open to
him, to command the meat to be dressed as he likes best;
and when he sits at table, the Host or Hostess will
accompany him, if they have many guests, will at least
visit him, taking it for courtesy to be bid sit down;
while he eats, if he have company especially, he shall
be offered music, which he may freely take or refuse,
and if he be solitary the musicians will give him good
day with music in the morning.
'It is the custom and in no way disgraceful to set up
part of supper for his breakfast.
'Lastly, a Man cannot more freely command at home in his
own house than he may do in his Inn, and at parting if
he give some few pence to the Chamberlin and Ostler they
wish him a happy journey.'
Beyond this and the drawings I need say no more.
The drawings will show how the points of a doublet may be varied, the
epaulette left or taken away, the little skirts cut or left plain.
They show you how a hat may be feathered and the correct shape of the
hat; how breeches may be left loose at the knee, or tied, or buttoned;
of the frills at the wrist and the ruffs at the neck--of everything, I
hope, that is necessary and useful.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of James I.}]
THE WOMEN
'What fashion will make a woman have the best body,
tailor?'
'A short Dutch waist, with a round Catherine-wheel
fardingale, a close sleeve, with a cartoose collar, or a
pickadell.'
I think, with a little imagination, we can see the lady: add to our
picture a feather fan, a man's beaver hat with a fine band round it
stuck with a rose or a feather, shoes with ribbo
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