S BY HOLLAR

These excellent drawings by Hollar need no explanation. They are
included in this book because of their great value as accurate
contemporary drawings of costume.

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

[Illustration: {Four women}]

THE CROMWELLS

1649-1660.

THE MEN AND WOMEN

'I left my pure mistress for a space,
And to a snip-snap barber straight went I;
I cut my hair, and did my corps uncase
Of 'parel's pride that did offend the eye;
My high crowned hat, my little beard also,
My pecked band, my shoes were sharp at toe.

'Gone was my sword, my belt was laid aside,
And I transformed both in looks and speech;
My 'parel plain, my cloak was void of pride,
My little skirts, my metamorphosed breech,
My stockings black, my garters were tied shorter,
My gloves no scent; thus marched I to her porter.'

[Illustration: {A man of the time of the Cromwells; a type of jacket}]

It is a question, in this time of restraint, of formalism, where
anything could be made plain, cut in a cumbrous fashion, rendered
inelegant, it was done. The little jackets were denuded of all forms
of frippery, the breeches were cut straight, and the ornaments, if
any, were of the most severe order. Hats became broader in the brim,
boots wider in the tops, in fact, big boots seemed almost a sign of
heavy religious feeling. The nice hair, love-locks, ordered negligence
all vanished, and plain crops or straight hair, not over long, marked
these extraordinary people. It was a natural revolt against
extravagance, and in some more sensible minds it was not carried to
excess; points and bows were allowable, though of sombre colours.
Sashes still held good, but of larger size, ruffs at the wrists were
worn, but of plain linen. The bands or collars varied in size
according to the religious enthusiasm of the wearers, but all were
plain without lace edgings, and were tied with plain strings. Black,
dark brown, and dull gray were the common colours, relieved sometimes,
if the man was wearing a sleeveless coat, by the yellow and red-barred
sleeves of the under-jacket, or possibly by coloured sleeves sewn
into the coat under the shoulder-wings. Overcoats were cut as
simply as possible