train. The ladies, for a time, indulged in a
peculiar loop of hair on their foreheads, called a 'fore-top,' which
gave rise to another fashion, less common, called a 'taure,' or bull's
head, being an arrangement of hair on the forehead resembling the
close curls of a bull. The loose curls on the forehead were
called 'favorites'; the long locks arranged to hang away from the
face over the ears were called 'heart-breakers'; and the curls close
to the cheek were called 'confidents.' Ladies wore cloaks with baggy
hoods for travelling, and for the Mall the same hats as men, loaded
with feathers.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF CHARLES II. (1660-1685)

This is the change which came over men's dress on or about October,
1666. It is the new-fashioned vest or body-coat introduced to the
notice of Charles by John Evelyn.]

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Charles II.}]

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Charles II.}]

I am going to leave the change in dress during this reign to the next
chapter, in which you will read how it struck Mr. Pepys. This change
separates the old world of dress from the new; it is the advent of
frocked coats, the ancestor of our frock-coat. It finishes completely
the series of evolutions beginning with the old tunic, running through
the gown stages to the doublet of Elizabethan times, lives in the half
coat, half doublet of Charles I., and ends in the absurd little
jackets of Charles II., who, sartorially, steps from the end of the
Middle Ages into the New Ages, closes the door on a wardrobe of
brilliant eccentricity, and opens a cupboard containing our first
frock-coat.

PEPYS AND CLOTHES

It is not really necessary for me to remind the reader that one of the
best companions in the world, Samuel Pepys, was the son of a tailor.
Possibly--I say possibly because the argument is really absurd--he may
have inherited his great interest in clothes from his father. You see
where the argument leads in the end: that all men to take an interest
in clothes must be born tailors' sons. This is no more true of Adam,
who certainly did interest himself, than it is of myself.

Pepys was educated at St. Paul's School, went to Trinity College,
Cambridge, got drunk there, and took a scholarship. He married when he
was twenty-two a girl of fifteen, the daughter of a Huguenot. He was
born in 1633, three years after the birth of Charles II., of
outrageous but delightful memory, and he commen