685-1689)

The body-coat has now become the universal fashion, as have also the
wide knee-breeches. Buckles are used on the shoes instead of
strings.]

[Illustration: {A man of the time of James II.}]

Of course the change was gradual, and more men wore the transitional
coat than the tight one. By the coat in its changing stages I mean
such a coat as this: the short coat of the early Charles II. period
made long, and, following the old lines of cut, correspondingly loose.
The sleeves remained much the same, well over the elbow, showing the
white shirt full and tied with ribbons. The shoe-strings had nearly
died out, giving place to a buckle placed on a strap well over the
instep.

There is a hint of growth in the periwig, and of fewer feathers round
the brim of the hat; indeed, little low hats with broad brims, merely
ornamented with a bunch or so of ribbons, began to become
fashionable.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of James II.}]

Swords were carried in broad baldricks richly ornamented.

The waistclothes of Mr. Pepys would, by now, have grown into broad
sashes, with heavily fringed ends, and would be worn round the outside
coat; for riding, this appears to have been the fashion, together with
small peaked caps, like jockey caps, and high boots.

The ladies of this reign simplified the dress into a gown more tight
to the bust, the sleeves more like the men's, the skirt still very
full, but not quite so long in the train.

Black hoods with or without capes were worn, and wide collars coming
over the shoulders again came into fashion. The pinner, noticed by
Pepys, was often worn.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF JAMES II. (1685-1689)

Notice the broad collar again in use, also the nosegay. The sleeves
are more in the mannish fashion.]

But the most noticeable change occurs in the dress of countryfolk and
ordinary citizens. The men began to drop all forms of doublet, and
take to the long coat, a suit of black grogram below the knees, a
sash, and a walking-stick; for the cold, a short black cloak. In the
country the change would be very noticeable. The country town, the
countryside, was, until a few years back, distinctly Puritanical in
garb; there were Elizabethan doublets on old men, and wide Cromwellian
breeches, patched doubtless, walked the market-place. Hair was worn
short. Now the russet brown clothes take a decided character in the
direction of the Persian coat and knic