arrangements for filling out the cheeks,
and 'watchet' eyes are blue eyes.
The ladies have changed a good deal by the middle of this reign: they
have looped up the gown till it makes side-panniers and a bag-like
droop at the back; the under-gown has a long train, and the bodice is
long-waisted. The front of the bodice is laced open, and shows either
an arrangement of ribbon and lace or a piece of the material of the
under-gown.
[Illustration: {Two hair arrangements and necklines for women}]
Black pinners in silk with a deep frill are worn as well as the white
lace and linen ones.
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of William and Mary}]
The ladies wear short black capes of this stuff with a deep frill.
Sometimes, instead of the fontage, a lady wears a lace shawl over her
head and shoulders, or a sort of lace cap bedizened with coloured
ribbons.
Her sleeves are like a man's, except that they come to the elbow only,
showing a white under-sleeve of lace gathered into a deep frill of
lace just below the elbow.
[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY (1689-1702)
Here you see the cap called the 'fontage,' the black silk apron, the
looped skirt, and the hair on the high frame called a 'commode.']
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of William and Mary}]
[Illustration: Country Folk.]
She is very stiff and tight-laced, and very long in the waist; and at
the waist where the gown opens and at the loopings of it the richer
wear jewelled brooches.
Later in the reign there began a fashion for copying men's clothes,
and ladies wore wide skirted coats with deep-flapped pockets, the
sleeves of the coats down below the elbow and with deep-turned
overcuffs. They wore, like the men, very much puffed and ruffled linen
and lace at the wrists. Also they wore men's waistcoat fashions,
carried sticks and little arm-hats--chapeau-bras. To complete the
dress the hair was done in a bob-wig style, and the cravat was tied
round their necks and pinned. For the winter one of those loose Dutch
jackets lined and edged with fur, having wide sleeves.
The general tendency was to look Dutch, stiff, prim, but very
prosperous; even the country maid in her best is close upon the heel
of fashion with her laced bodice, sleeves with cuffs, apron, and
high-heeled shoes.
QUEEN ANNE
Reigned twelve years: 1702-1714.
Born 1665. Married, 1683, Prince George of Denmark.
THE MEN AND WO
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