remarkable, newer than the rest, but perhaps you
have been in the country for a week, and a new mode has come in and is
dying out.
[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF GEORGE II. (1727-1760)
Notice the heavy cuffs, and the very full skirts of the coat. He
carries a _chapeau bras_ under his arm--a hat for carrying only,
since he will not ruffle his wig. He wears a black satin tie to his
wig, the ends of which tie come round his neck, are made into a bow,
and brooched with a solitaire.]
[Illustration: {A man of the time of George II.}]
From coat let us look at waistcoat. Full flaps and long almost to the
knees; but again, about 1756, they will be shorter. They are fringed,
flowered, laced, open to show the lace cravat fall so daintily, to
show the black velvet bow-tie that comes over from the black velvet,
or silk, or satin tie of the queue. Ruffles of lace, of all qualities,
at the wrists, the beau's hand emerging with his snuff-box from a
filmy froth of white lace.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of George II.; a wig; breeches and
stockings}]
In this era of costume--from George I. to George IV.--the great thing
to remember is that the coat changes more than anything else; from
the stiff William and Mary coat with its deep, stiff cuffs, you see
the change towards the George I. coat, a looser cut of the same
design, still simple in embroideries; then the coat skirts are
gathered to a button at each side of the coat just behind the pockets.
Then, in George II.'s reign, the skirt hangs in parallel folds free
from the button, and shapes to the back more closely, the opening of
the coat, from the neck to the waist, being so cut as to hang over the
buttons and show the cravat and the waistcoat. Then, later in the same
reign, we see the coat with the skirts free of buckram and very full
all round, and the cuffs also free of stiffening and folding with the
crease of the elbow. Then, about 1745, we get the coat left more open,
and, for the beau, cut much shorter--this often worn over a
double-breasted waistcoat. Then, arriving at George III., we get a
long series of coat changes, with a collar on it, turned over and
standing high in the neck, with the skirts buttoned back, then cut
away; then the front of the coat cut away like the modern dress-coat.
[Illustration: {Four men of the time of George II.}]
In following out these really complicated changes, I have done my best
to make my mean
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