and remark his clothes; by them I guess he has ridden from the
country. He is wearing a wide-skirted coat of red with deep flap
pockets; his coat has buttons from neck to hem, but only two or
three--at the waist--are buttoned. One hand, with the deep cuff pushed
back from the wrist to show his neat frilled shirt, is thrust into his
unbuttoned breeches pocket, the two pockets being across the top of
his breeches. Round his neck is a black Steenkirk cravat (a black silk
tie knotted and twisted or allowed to hang over loose). His hat is of
black, and the wide brim is turned back from his forehead. His wig is
a short black periwig in bobs--that is, it is gathered into bunches
just on the shoulders, and is twisted in a little bob at the back of
the neck. I have forgotten whether he wore red or blue stockings
rolled above the knee, but either is likely. His shoes are strong,
high-heeled, and have a big tongue showing above the buckle.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Anne}]

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF QUEEN ANNE (1702-1714)

Notice that the fontage has become much lower, and the hoop of the
skirt has become enormous. The hair is more naturally dressed.]

He tells me that in Norfolk, where he has come from, the hoop has not
come into fashion; that ladies there dress much as they did before
Queen Anne came to the throne. The fontage is lower, perhaps, the
waist may be longer, but skirts are full and have long trains, and are
gathered in loops to show the petticoat of silk with its deep
double row of flounces. Aprons are worn long, and have good pockets.
Cuffs are deep, but are lowered to below the elbow. The bodice of the
gown is cut high in the back and low in front, and is decked with a
deep frill of lace or linen, which allows less bare neck to show than
formerly. A very observant gentleman! 'But you have seen the new
hoop?' I ask him. Yes, he has seen it. As he rode into town he noticed
that the old fashions gave way to new, that every mile brought the
fontage lower and the hair more hidden, until short curls and a little
cap of linen or lace entirely replaced the old high head-dress and the
profusion of curls on the shoulders. The hoop, he noticed, became
larger and larger as he neared the town, and the train grew shorter,
and the patterns on the under-skirt grew larger with the hoop.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Anne}]

I leave my gentleman from the country and I stroll about th