er 2 Pepys buys a vest like the King's.

On November 22 the King of France, Louis XIV., who had declared war
against England earlier in the year, says that he will dress all his
footmen in vests like the King of England. However, fashion is beyond
the power of royal command, and the world soon followed in the matter
of the Persian coat and vest, even to the present day.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Charles II.}]

Next year, 1667, Pepys notes that Lady Newcastle, in her velvet cap
and her hair about her ears, is the talk of the town. She wears a
number of black patches because of the pimples about her mouth, she is
naked-necked (no great peculiarity), and she wears a _just au corps_,
which is a close body-coat.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Charles II.}]

Pepys notices the shepherd at Epsom with his wool-knit stockings of
two colours, mixed. He wears a new camlett cloak. The shoe-strings
have given place to buckles, and children wear long coats.

In 1668 his wife wears a flower tabby suit ('everybody in love with
it'). He is forced to lend the Duke of York his cloak because it
rains. His barber agrees to keep his periwig in order for L1 a year.
He buys a black bombazin suit.

In 1669 his wife wears the new French gown called a sac; he pays 55s.
for his new belt. His wife still wears her old flower tabby gown. So
ends the dress note in the Diary.

JAMES THE SECOND

Reigned four years: 1685-1689.

Born 1633. Married, 1661, Anne Hyde; 1673, Mary of
Modena.

THE MEN AND WOMEN

[Illustration: {Two men of the time of James II.; a type of sleeve}]

In such a short space of time as this reign occupies it is not
possible to show any great difference in the character of the dress,
but there is a tendency, shown over the country at large, to discard
the earlier beribboned fashions, and to take more seriously to the
long coat and waistcoat. There is a tendency, even, to become more
buttoned up--to present what I can only call a frock-coat figure. The
coat became closer to the body, and was braided across the front
in many rows, the ends fringed out and held by buttons. The waistcoat,
with the pockets an arm's length down, was cut the same length as the
coat. Breeches were more frequently cut tighter, and were buttoned up
the side of the leg. The cuffs of the sleeves were wide, and were
turned back well over the wrist.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF JAMES II. (1