ticoat with a broad border of embroidery.
Sometimes she is covered with little bows, and at others with much
gold lacing; and now and again she wears a narrow sash round her waist
tied with a bow in front.

She is taking more readily to the man's hat, feathered and banded, and
in so doing is forced to dress her hair more simply and do away with
jewellery on her forehead; but, as is often the case, she dresses her
hair with plumes and jewels and little linen or lace ruffs, and atop
of all wears a linen cap with side wings to it and a peak in the
centre.

Her ruff is now, most generally, in the form of an upstanding collar
to her dress, open in front, finishing on her shoulders with some neat
bow or other ornament. It is of lace of very fine workmanship, edged
plain and square, or in all manner of fancy scallops, circles, and
points.

Sometimes she will wear both ruff and collar, the ruff underneath to
prop up her collar at the back to the required modish angle.
Sometimes her bodice will finish off in a double Catherine-wheel.

Her maid is a deal more simple; her hair is dressed very plainly, a
loop by the ears, a twist at the nape of the neck. She has a shawl
over her shoulders, or a broad falling collar of white linen. She has
no fardingale, but her skirts are full. Her bodice fits, but is not
stiffened artificially; her sleeves are tight and neat, and her cuffs
plain. Upon her head is a broad-brimmed plain hat.

[Illustration: {Comparison of head-dress between a lady and a maid}]

She has a piece of gossip for her mistress: at Chelsea they are making
a satin dress for the Princess of Wales from Chinese silkworm's silk.
On another day comes the news that the Constable of Castile when at
Whitehall subscribed very handsomely to the English fashion, and
kissed the Queen's hands and the cheeks of twenty ladies of honour.

The fashion for dresses of pure white, either in silk, cloth, or
velvet has affected both men and women; and the countries which gave a
name to the cuts of the garments are evidenced in the literature of
the time. How a man's breeches or slops are Spanish; his waist, like
the lady's, Dutch; his doublet French; his and her sleeves and wings
on the shoulders French; their boots Polonian, cloaks German, hose
Venetian, hats from everywhere. These spruce coxcombs, with
looking-glasses set in their tobacco boxes, so that they may privately
confer with them to see--

'How his band jumpeth with his