a
coach and horses, cut in black silk, ready to be gummed to the faces
of the fair.

Knowing from other histories of such fads that the germ of the matter
lies in a royal indisposition, we look in vain for the conceited
history of the Princess and the Pimple, but no doubt some more earnest
enquirer after truth will hit upon the story--this toy tragedy of the
dressing-table.

For the dress we can do no better than look at the 'Ornatus Muliebris
Anglicanus,' that wonderfully careful compilation by Hollar of all the
dresses in every class of society.

It is interesting to see how the Jacobean costume lost, by degrees,
its formal stiffness, and first fardingale and then ruff vanished.

Early in the reign the high-dressed hair was abandoned, and to take
its place the hair was dressed so that it was gathered up by the ears,
left parted on the crown, and twisted at the back to hold a plume or
feather. Time went on, and hair-dressing again altered; the hair was
now taken in four parts: first the hair was drawn well back off the
forehead, then the two side divisions were curled neatly and dressed
to fall over the ears, the fourth group of hair was neatly twisted and
so made into a small knot holding the front hair in its place. Later
on came the fringe of small curls, as in the portrait of Queen
Henrietta at Windsor by Vandyck.

We see at first that while the ruff, or rather the rebatoe--that
starched lace high collar--remained, the fardingale having
disappeared, left, for the upper gown, an enormous quantity of waste
loose material that had previously been stretched over the fardingale
and parted in front to show the satin petticoat. From this there
sprung, firstly, a wide, loose gown, open all the way down and tied
about the middle with a narrow sash, the opening showing the boned
bodice of the under-dress with its pointed protruding stomacher, the
woman's fashion having retained the form of the man's jerkin. Below
this showed the satin petticoat with its centre strip or band of
embroidery, and the wide border of the same. In many cases the long
hanging sleeves were kept.

Then there came the fall of the rebatoe and the decline of the
protruding figure, and with this the notion of tying back the full
upper skirt to show more plainly the satin petticoat, which was now
losing the centre band of ornament and the border.

With this revolution in dress the disappearing ruff became at first
much lower and then finally vani