shed, and a lace collar, falling over
the shoulders, took its place. This gave rise to two distinct fashions
in collars, the one as I have described, the other a collar from the
neck, like a large edition of the man's collar of that time. This
collar came over the shoulders and in two points over the breast,
sometimes completely hiding the upper part of the dress.

The stiff-boned bodice gave place to one more easily cut, shorter,
with, in place of the long point, a series of long strips, each strip
ornamented round the hem.

At this time the sleeves, different from the old-fashioned tight
sleeves, were very full indeed, and the sleeve of the loose over-gown
was made wider in proportion, and was tied across the under-sleeve
above the elbow by a knot of ribbons, the whole ending in a deep cuff
of lace. Then the over-gown disappeared, the bodice became a short
jacket laced in front, openly, so as to show the sleeveless bodice of
the same material and colour as the petticoat; the sleeves were not
made so wide, and they were cut to come just below the elbow, leaving
the wrists and forearm bare.

In winter a lady often wore one of those loose Dutch jackets, round
and full, with sleeves just long enough to cover the under-sleeves,
the whole lined and edged with fur; or she might wear a short circular
fur-lined cape with a small turned-over collar. In summer the little
jacket was often discarded, and the dress was cut very simply but very
low in the bust, and they wore those voluminous silk wraps in common
with the men.

The little sashes were very much worn, and ornaments of knots of
ribbon or points (that is, a ribbon with a metal tag at either end)
were universal.

The change of fashion to short full sleeves gave rise to the turned
back cuff of the same material as the sleeve, and some costumes show
this short jacket with its short sleeves with cuffs, while under it
shows the dress with tight sleeves reaching to the wrists where were
linen or lace cuffs, a combination of two fashions.

Part of the lady's equipment now was a big feather fan, and a big fur
muff for winter; also the fashion of wearing long gloves to reach to
the elbow came in with the advent of short sleeves.

Naturally enough there was every variety of evolution from the old
fashion to the new, as the tight sleeves did not, of course, become
immediately wide and loose, but by some common movement, so curious in
the history of such revolutions, the sl