ide cuts, the
sleeves are wide and loose with, as a rule, one big opening on the
inside of the arm, with this opening embroidered round. The cuffs are
like little collars, turned back with point-lace edges. The actual cut
of the doublet has not altered a great deal, the ordinary run of
doublet has the pointed front, it is tied round the waist with a
little narrow sash; but there has arrived a new jacket, cut round,
left open from the middle of the breast, sometimes cut so short as to
show the shirt below bulged out over the breeches. Sometimes you will
see one of these new short jackets with a slit in the back, and under
this the man will be wearing the round trunks of his father's time.

[Illustration: {Two men of the time of Charles I.; a type of jacket;
a type of breeches}]

The breeches are mostly in two classes--the long breeches the shape of
bellows, tied at the knee with a number of points or a bunch of
coloured ribbons; or the breeches cut the same width all the way
down, loose at the knee and there ornamented with a row of points
(ribbons tied in bows with tags on them).

A new method of ornamentation was this notion of coloured ribbons in
bunches, on the breeches, in front, at the sides, at the knees--almost
anywhere--and also upon the coats.

For some time the older fashioned short round cape or cloak prevailed,
but later, large silk cloaks used as wraps thrown across the shoulders
were used as well. The other cloaks had straps, like the modern golf
cape, by which the cloak might be allowed to fall from the shoulders.

A custom arrived of wearing boots more frequently, and there was the
tall, square-toed, high-heeled boot, fitting up the leg to just below
the knee, without a turnover; the stiff, thick leather, blacking boot
with broad, stiff tops, also not turned back; and there was also the
result of the extraordinary melting, crumpled dismissal of all
previous stiffness, whereby the old tall boot drooped down until it
turned over and fell into a wide cup, all creases and wrinkles, nearly
over the foot, while across the instep was a wide, shaped flap of
leather. This last falling boot-top was turned in all manner of
ways by those who cared to give thought to it.

[Illustration: {Sixteen types of boot and shoe}]

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF CHARLES I. (1625-1649)

He has wrapped his blue cloak over his arm, a usual method of
carrying the cloak. He is simply dressed, without bu