lip, and these bring with them many innovations in
dress. The most noticeable is the high-peaked Spanish hat, a velvet
bag with a narrow brim, worn on one side of the head. There is, also,
a hard-crowned hat, round the crown-base of which is a gold cord
clasped by a jewel; a feather is stuck into this hat. Yet the mass of
citizens wear the flat cap, some of them, the older men, have a coif
tied under their chins, and over this the flat cap. Again, older men
wear black velvet skull caps.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Mary}]

With these Spaniards comes, also, the first appearance of the ruff,
very neat and small.

Although the overcoats of Henry's and Edward's reigns still form the
principal wear, the short Spanish cloak has come in, cut in full
folds, and reaching not far below the waist. They also brought in the
cloak with a turned up high collar; and some had sleeves to their
cloaks.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF MARY (1553-1558)

The half-way between the dress of 1530 and 1560. A cloak very much
of the period, and a tunic in the state of evolution towards the
doublet.]

One sees more beards and moustaches, short clipped beards, and beards
with two points.

Shoes are now more to the shape of the foot, and high boots strapped
up over the knee, also half-boots with the tops turned over to be
seen. Often, where the hose meet the trunks, these are turned down.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Mary; two types of boot}]

The doublets become shaped more closely to the body, all showing the
gradual change towards the Elizabethan costume, but still retaining
the characteristics of earlier times, as the long skirt to the
doublet, and the opening to show the collar of the shirt, or partlet
strip.

Ladies now show more hair, parted, as before, in the centre, but now
puffed out at the sides.

The new shape of head-dress becomes popular, and the upstanding collar
to the gown is almost universal.

The gowns themselves, though retaining the same appearance as before,
full skirts, no trains, big sleeves, and split to show the
under-gown, have the top part of the gown covering the bosom made of
a separate material, as, for instance, a gown of fine cloth will have
collar and yoke of velvet.

Women wear neat linen caps, made very plain and close to the head,
with small ear-pieces.

[Illustration: {Three men of the time of Mary}]

On the shoulders there is a fashion of wearing kerchief