ng well over the shoulders. It was made, this
collar, of such stuff as lined the cloak, maybe it was of fur, or of
satin, of silk, or of cloth of gold. The tremendous folds of these
overcoats gave to the persons in them a sense of splendour and
dignity; the short sleeves of the fashionable overcoats, puffed and
swollen, barred with rich _applique_ designs or bars of fur, reaching
only to the elbow, there to end in a hem of fur or some rich stuff,
the collar as wide as these padded shoulders, all told in effect as
garments which gave a great air of well-being and richness to their
owner.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry VIII.}]

Of course, I suppose one must explain, the sleeves varied in every
way: were long, short, full, medium full, according to taste.
Sometimes the overcoats were sleeveless. Beneath these garments the
trunks were worn--loose little breeches, which, in the German style,
were bagged, puffed, rolled, and slashed in infinite varieties. Let it
be noticed that the cutting of slashes was hardly ever a straight
slit, but in the curve of an elongated S or a double S curve. Other
slashes were squared top and bottom.

[Illustration: {Three men of the time of Henry VIII.}]

All men wore tight hose, in some cases puffed at the knee; in fact,
the bagging, sagging, and slashing of hose suggested the separate
breeches or trunks of hose.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF HENRY VIII. (1509-1547)

A plain but rich looking dress. The peculiar head-dress has a pad of
silk in front to hold it from the forehead. The half-sleeves are
well shown.]

The shoes were very broad, and were sometimes stuffed into a mound at
the toes, were sewn with precious stones, and, also, were cut and
puffed with silk.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry VIII.}]

The little flat cap will be seen in all its varieties in the drawings.

The Irish were forbidden by law to wear a shirt, smock, kerchor,
bendel, neckerchor, mocket (a handkerchor), or linen cap coloured or
dyed with saffron; or to wear in shirts or smocks above seven yards of
cloth.

To wear black genet you must be royal; to wear sable you must rank
above a viscount; to wear marten or velvet trimming you must be worth
over two hundred marks a year.

Short hair came into fashion about 1521.

[Illustration: {Three men of the time of Henry VIII. (torso only);
three types of shoe; two types of boot; a cod-piece}]

So well kno