by which means the cut side
may be fastened off the shoulders. The front is now stiffened and
shaped at an angle, this front is sewn with jewels, and, as the angle
forms a gap between the forehead and the point of the hood, a pad is
added to fill in the vacant space. At last one arrives at the
diamond-shaped head-dress worn in this reign, and, in this reign,
elaborated in every way, elaborated, in fact, out of existence. In
order to make the head-dress in its 1509 state you must make the white
lining with the jewelled turnover as a separate cap. However, I think
that the drawings speak for themselves more plainly than I can write.

[Illustration: {Four types of head-dress for women}]

Every device for crowding jewels together was used, criss-cross, in
groups of small numbers, in great masses. Pendants were worn, hung
upon jewelled chains that wound twice round the neck, once close to
the neck, the second loop loose and passed, as a rule, under the lawn
shift. Large brooches decorated the bodices, brooches with drop
ornaments, the body of the brooch of fine gold workmanship, many of
them wrought in Italy. The shift, delicately embroidered with black
silk, had often a band of jewellery upon it, and this shift was square
cut, following the shape of the bodice.

The bodice of the gown was square cut and much stiffened to a box-like
shape. The sleeves of the gown were narrow at the shoulders, and after
fitting the arm for about six inches down from the shoulders, they
widened gradually until, just below the elbow, they became square and
very full; in this way they showed the false under-sleeve. This
under-sleeve was generally made of a fine rich-patterned silk or
brocade, the same stuff which formed the under-gown; the sleeve was a
binding for the very full lawn or cambric sleeve which showed in a
ruffle at the wrist and in great puffs under the forearm. The
under-sleeve was really more like a gauntlet, as it was generally held
together by buttoned tags; it was puffed with other coloured silk,
slashed to show the shift, or it might be plain.

Now the sleeve of the gown was subject to much alteration. It was, as
I have described, made very square and full at the elbow, and over
this some ladies wore a false sleeve of gold net--you may imagine the
length to which net will go, studied with jewels, crossed in many
ways, twisted into patterns, sewn on to the sleeve in sloping
lines--but, besides this, the sleeve was turned