small fields, separated from
one another by thick low fences, made of large stones. The clearing of
this stony ground doubtless costs the original cultivators much fatigue.
These enormous stones had to be dug out of the ground one after the
other, and rolled with labour to the borders of the fields.

At the time of our passing, the country presented a dull and melancholy
aspect. The landscape, however, was animated at intervals by caravans of
Lamas, who, singing and dancing, were going to the solemn festival of the
Lha-Ssa-Morou. Shouts of joy and laughter issued now and then from the
farmhouses on the roadside, and informed us that the rejoicings for the
new year were not yet at an end.

Our first stage was a short one. We stopped some time before sunset, at
Detsin-Dzoug, a large village, six leagues (60 lis) distant from Lha-Ssa.

A large house had been previously got ready for the accommodation of the
caravan. As soon as we had alighted, we were introduced, by the governor
of the village to a room, in the midst of which flamed a magnificent fire
of argols, in a large earthen basin. We were invited to seat ourselves
on thick cushions of green Pou-Lou, and we were served immediately with
buttered tea. We were, in fact, surrounded by such care and attention,
that our hearts began to open. This kind of travelling seemed marvellous
to us. What a contrast to the hard and laborious life we had spent in
the desert, where a halt was only an aggravation of misery to us. To
travel without being obliged to pitch a tent and to see to the animals;
without being put to any straits for fuel and food, seemed the
realization of a brilliant utopia. As soon as we dismounted, to find a
warm room, and a large pitcher of buttered tea, was for us absolute
sybaritism.

Soon after our arrival we received the official visit of the Grand Lama,
whom the Regent had appointed to accompany us to the frontiers of China,
and with whom we had as yet merely exchanged a few compliments as we
crossed the river. This individual called Dsiamdchang, that is to say,
the musician, was a thick-set man, about 60 years of age, who had
fulfilled administrative functions in several parts of Thibet. Before
being recalled to Lha-Ssa, he occupied the post of Dheba-general, in a
district some little distance from Ladak; his large and somewhat wrinkled
countenance was full of good nature. His character partook of the
frankness and open disposition of a