, that is reasonable; but to
bring into the central nation, a large-footed woman and all these little
barbarians, why, it is contrary to all established usages. Has the
fellow an idea of making money by exhibiting these animals of Thibet?"
More than once observations of this kind excited our indignation. We
always made a point of defending this worthy father, of commending his
honourable conduct, and of reproving loudly the barbarity and immorality
of the Chinese customs.
Shortly after we had admitted into our caravan the interesting little
party from Tsiamdo, we left the river Dza-Tchou to our right, and
ascended a high mountain covered with large trees and enormous rocks,
themselves covered with thick coats of lichen. We afterwards again came
upon the river, and proceeded along its banks, by a rugged path, for a
few lis, till we arrived at Meng-Phou. We had travelled scarcely eight
leagues, but we were overcome with fatigue. The three days rest we had
taken at Tsiamdo had modified our equestrian powers, so that we had some
difficulty in getting our legs into riding order again. Meng-Phou
consists of seven or eight huts, built of rough stone, in a large and
deep ravine.
Next day we travelled along the crest of a lofty mountain, having
continually to mount and dismount, in order to get from one eminence to
another. On this route we had frequently to cross precipices on wooden
bridges, which, to use the expression of the Chinese Itinerary, are
"suspended in the region of the clouds." After a march of 60 lis we
reached Pao-Tun, where we changed the oulah, and where we began to find
the Thibetians less complaisant and docile than on the other side of
Tsiamdo. Their mien was haughtier and their manner more abrupt. On the
other hand, the Chinese of the caravan became more humble, less exacting,
and prudently abstained from speaking in a domineering fashion. All the
way from Pao-Tun to Bagoung, you see nothing for ten leagues but
calcareous mountains, entirely bare and rough. No trees are to be seen,
nor grass, nor even moss. Below you only remark, in the fissures of the
rocks, a little verdant stone-crop, which seems to protest against the
desolate sterility around. One of these mountains, which the Chinese
call Khou-Loung-Chan, which means the perforated mountain, presents a
very singular appearance. You see here a great number of holes and
hollows, in infinite variety of form and size. Some of these ap
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