habitants of the town rushed out in
a crowd into the streets, with horn lanterns, torches, and weapons of
every description, the general impression being that there was an
invasion of the enemy. However, when they observed the peaceful and even
timid bearing of the caravan, their apprehensions were quieted, and each
person returned home. It was past midnight before we were able to get to
sleep, having previously resolved to stay a day at Djaya, with a view to
take a few hours' rest after crossing the famous mountain of Angti,--not
more than was necessary.

Djaya is, as we have stated already, the residence of the young Lama
Houtouktou, who at the time was warring with the Houtouktou of Tsiamdo.
The town, situated in a beautiful valley, is tolerably large; but, at the
time we passed through it, it was half in ruins; scarce twenty days had
elapsed since it had been attacked by the partisans of the Grand
Houtouktou. The two parties, we were informed, had had terrific combats,
wherein on both sides the victims had been numerous. In passing through
the town, we found whole quarters laid waste by fire; nothing remained
but enormous heaps of calcined stones, and woodwork reduced to ashes.
All the trees of the valley had been cut down, and the trampling of
horses had utterly laid waste the cultivated fields. The celebrated
Lamasery of Djaya was deserted, the cells of the Lamas and the wall, for
more than 400 yards in circuit, which surrounded them, had been
demolished, and presented nothing but a terrible mass of ruins. The
assailants had only respected the principal temples of Buddha.

The Chinese government keeps at Djaya a small garrison, composed of
twenty soldiers, commanded by a Tsien-Tsoung and a Pa-Tsoung. These
military gentlemen wore anything but a satisfied aspect. They seemed to
be very indifferently pleased in this country, a prey to all the horrors
of civil war. The warlike attitude of the mountaineers left them no
rest, day or night. It was in vain they tried to preserve neutrality, or
rather to have the appearance of belonging to both parties; they none the
less found themselves constantly between two fires. It would appear,
indeed, that Djaya has never furnished to the Chinese an easy and
agreeable residence. At all times, Chinese domination has met with
invincible resistance from the fierce tribes around it. The Chinese
Itinerary, which was written in the reign of the Emperor Kien-Long,
expresses