a.
"At Detsin-Dzoug there are several inns, in which 40 lis.
travellers generally stop for some time; near the road
is a post-house. Thence a journey of 40 lis takes you
to the convent of Tsai-Li
"At Tsai-Li, there is a Dheba who supplies travellers 20 lis.
with wood and hay; this district is separated only by
a river from the territory of Lha-Ssa; you reach this
last place, after a journey of 20 lis; there is a
military commandant there
Total 60 lis."
We set out from Detsin-Dzoug before daybreak, for we had a long way to
go. We followed the same valley we had entered, on quitting the town of
Lha-Ssa. But as we advanced, the mountains, with which this large plain
is surrounded, rose insensibly in the horizon, and seemed to draw near
us; the valley grew narrower and narrower; the ground became more and
more stony; the farms less frequent; and the population lost by degrees
that appearance of refinement and civilization which is always observable
in the environs of large towns. After a rapid and uninterrupted march of
80 lis we stopped to take a little repose and refreshment in a large and
ruinous Buddhist convent, which served as a residence for some old ragged
Lamas. The poverty in which they lived rendered them unable to offer to
the staff of the caravan anything but tea with milk, a pot of beer, and a
small roll of butter. However, by adding to these provisions, some
biscuit and a leg of mutton which the cook of Ly-Kouo-Ngan had been civil
enough to prepare for us on the previous evening, we realized a
sufficiently substantial repast.
As soon as we had satisfied our appetite and refreshed our limbs, we
thanked these poor religious Buddhists with a khata, or scarf of
blessings, and then remounted our horses. It was already late, and we
had yet 40 lis to go before we reached our night stage. It was
pitch-dark when we arrived at Midchoukoung. Our first care was to summon
our Thibetian grooms, and bid them get ready our beds as soon as
possible. We considered that after a long journey on a bad horse, we
might dispense with ceremony. After partaking of a light repast, and
saying our prayers, we wished a good night to the Pacificator of
Kingdoms, and to the Lama musician, and proceeded to bury ourselves under
the coverlid.
Next day, when we put our heads out of bed, the sun was already shining
in all its splendour, yet all was q
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