t with on the way, before reaching
this mountain, and which intimidate the heart and dim the eye, may cause
this to be regarded, in comparison, as a plain easily traversed." The
summit of Mount Loumma-Ri, although very lofty, is, in fact, very easy of
access. We reached it by an easy slope, without being obliged to
dismount once, a very remarkable circumstance in the mountains of Thibet.
We found, however, on the other side of the mountain a somewhat serious
difficulty, on account of the snow, which fell that day in abundance.
The animals frequently slipped, sometimes their hind feet came suddenly
in contact with their fore feet, but they never fell. The only result to
the horsemen was a sort of jerking swing, to which we grew gradually
accustomed.

The Pacificator of Kingdoms took it into his head to dismount, and walk,
to warm himself a little; but after a few stumbling steps, he staggered
for an instant on his poor legs, fell, and made in the snow a broad, deep
furrow. He rose in a fury, ran to the nearest soldier, and loaded him
with curses and cuts of his whip, because he had not dismounted to
support him. All the Chinese soldiers immediately jumped from their
steeds, and fell at the feet of their colonel, making excuses. All, in
fact, had been deficient in their duty; for, according to the Chinese
code of politeness, when a chief sets his foot on the ground, all the
subalterns must on the instant dismount.

When we were at the base of the mountain of Loumma-Ri, we continued our
march along a little river, which meandered through a forest of firs so
thick that the light of day scarce penetrated it; the snow lay deeply on
the broad branches of the trees, whence the wind shook them in thick
flakes on the caravan. These small avalanches, falling unexpectedly upon
the horsemen, made them start, and utter cries of surprise; but the
animals, which, doubtless, had crossed the forest before in similar
weather, were in no degree affected. They continued at their ordinary
pace, without taking fright, contenting themselves with quietly shaking
off the snow from their ears whenever it incommoded them.

We had scarcely emerged from the forest when we were all obliged to
dismount, for the purpose of scaling, during a full hour, some horrible
rocks. When we had reached the summit, we laid the bridles on the necks
of the horses, and left the animals to the sagacity of their instinct as
a guide over this rapid and precip