mountains of
Thibet, wherever people care for their independence and their dignity.

Our residence at Tsiamdo was quite exempt from the irritation and rage
that reigned about us. We were treated with all those marks of attention
and kindness which we had experienced on all our journey since our
departure from Lha-Ssa. Both the young and the old Houtouktou sent us a
scarf of blessing, with a good provision of butter and quarters of
mutton.

We stayed at Tsiamdo three days; for our guide, the Pacificator of
Kingdoms, had great need of rest. The fatigues of this arduous route had
sensibly affected his health. His legs were so swollen that he could not
mount or dismount from his horse without the assistance of several
persons. The physicians and sorcerers of Tsiamdo, whom he consulted,
gave answers, the clearest meaning of which was, that if the malady
diminished, it would be no great matter; but that if it should grow
worse, it might become a serious affair. The most reasonable counsellors
advised Ly-Kouo-Ngan to continue his journey in a palanquin. A Chinese
Mandarin of the place offered to sell him his own, and to engage
carriers. This advice was perfectly prudent; but avarice interposed, and
the sick man protested that he should be more fatigued in a palanquin
than on horseback.

To the illness of Ly-Kouo-Ngan was added another source of delay. A
Chinese caravan which had left Lha-Ssa a few days after us, had arrived
at Tsiamdo on the same evening with ourselves. This caravan consisted of
a Liang-Tai, or commissary, of his son, a young man of eighteen, and of a
numerous suite of soldiers and servants. We wanted to let these pass on
before, for, if we travelled in company, it was to be feared that we
should not find lodgings and oulah sufficient for so great a number. The
Liang-Tai and his son travelled in palanquins; but, notwithstanding the
conveniences of this mode of conveyance, the two illustrious travellers
were so extenuated with fatigue, and so languid, that it was the general
impression their strength would not suffice to carry them into China.
The literary Mandarins being used to an easy life, are little adapted for
supporting the innumerable miseries of the journey into Thibet. Among
those who are sent to fulfil the duties of commissary, few are fortunate
enough to return to their country.

[Picture: Thibetian Travellers]

The day of our departure, the old Houtouktou of