in breadth and ten in length: it was frozen,
and we crossed it easily, thanks to a slight coating of snow with which
it was covered. We lodged in a miserable hamlet, called Tsa-Tchou-Ka,
near which are hot springs. The Thibetians bathe there, and do not fail
to attribute to them marvellous properties.
The next day was a day of great fatigue and tribulation; we crossed the
mountain Chor-Kou-La, which, for its height and ruggedness, may well
rival that of Lha-Ri. We began its ascent, our hearts full of anxiety,
for the clouded and lowering sky that hung over us, seemed to presage
wind or snow; the mercy of God preserved us from both the one and the
other. Towards mid-day, there rose a light north wind, the cutting cold
of which soon chapped our faces; but it was not strong enough to raise
the thick coat of snow which covered the mountain.
As soon as we had reached the summit, we rested for a moment under the
shade of a large stone obo, and dined on a pipe of tobacco. During this
frugal repast, the Mandarin Ly-Kouo-Ngan told us, that in the time of the
wars of Kien-Long against Thibet, the Chinese troops, exasperated by the
fatigues and privations of a long journey, mutinied as they were passing
Chor-Kou-La. "On this plateau," said he, "the soldiers arrested their
officers, and after having bound them, threatened to precipitate them
into this gulf, unless they promised them increased pay. The generals
having agreed to do right to the claims of the army, the sedition was
appeased, the Mandarins were set at liberty, and they quietly continued
their march to Lha-Ri. As soon as they arrived in this town, the
generals made good their promise, and increased the pay; but, at the same
time, these insubordinate soldiers were mercilessly decimated." "And
what did the soldiers say?" inquired we of Ly-Kouo-Ngan. "Those upon
whom the lot did not fall, laughed heartily, and declared that their
officers had shown great ability."
On quitting the summit of Chor-Kou-La, you follow a somewhat inclined
path, and continue for several days on an extensive, high ground, the
numerous ramifications of which stretch afar their pointed tops and the
sharp needles of their peaks. From Lha-Ssa to the province of
Sse-Tchouen, through all this long route, nothing is to be seen but
immense chains of mountains, intersected with cataracts, deep gulfs, and
narrow defiles. These mountains are now all heaped up together,
presenting to the vie
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