o ascend the formidable
Mountain of Spirits (_Lha-Ri_). It rose before us like a huge block of
snow, whereon we perceived not a single tree, not a blade of grass, not a
dark spot to interrupt the uniformity of the dazzling whiteness. As had
been arranged, the long-haired oxen, followed by their drivers, went
first, advancing one after the other; next came the horsemen, in single
file, in their steps, and the long caravan, like a gigantic serpent,
slowly developed its sinuosities on the mountain side. At first the
descent was by no means rapid, for we encountered frightful quantities of
snow, that threatened every instant to bury us. We saw the oxen at the
head of the column, advancing by leaps, anxiously seeking the least
perilous places, now to the right, now to the left, sometimes
disappearing all at once in some deep rut, and struggling amidst those
masses of moving snow, like porpoises amid the billows of the ocean. The
horsemen who closed the cavalcade found a more solid footing. We
advanced slowly along the steep and narrow furrows traced out for us
between the walls of snow, that rose to the height of our breasts. The
air resounded with the bellowing of the oxen; the horses panted loudly,
and the men, to keep up the courage of the caravan, raised, every now and
then, a simultaneous shout like that of mariners at the capstan.
Gradually the route became so steep, so precipitous, that the caravan
seemed suspended from the mountain's side. It was impossible to remain
on horseback; every one dismounted, and each clinging to his horse's
tail, resumed his march with renewed ardour. The sun, shining in all its
splendour, darted its rays on these vast piles of snow, and caused them
to emit innumerable sparks, the flashing of which dazzled the eyes.
Fortunately, our visuals were sheltered by the inestimable glasses that
the Dheba of Ghiamda had given us.

After long and indescribable labour, we arrived, or rather, were hauled
up to the summit of the mountain. The sun was already on the decline.
We stopped for an instant, both to re-adjust the saddles and fasten the
baggage, and to remove from the soles of our boots the masses of snow
that had accumulated upon them, and become consolidated into the form of
cones reversed. Every one was transported with joy. We felt a sort of
pride in being mounted so high, and in finding ourselves standing on this
gigantic pedestal. We took a pleasure in following with our eyes