sidences of the Lamas, stand on the
slope of a mountain planted with hollies and cypresses. The road
followed by the pilgrims who come from Tartary, passes by these houses.
At a distance, these monuments, ranged in the form of an amphitheatre one
above the other, and standing out upon the green base of the mountain,
present an attractive and picturesque sight. Here and there, in the
breaks of the mountain, and quite above the religious city, you see a
great number of cells inhabited by contemplative Lamas, and which you can
only reach with great difficulty. The monastery of Sera is remarkable
for three large temples of several stories high, all the rooms of which
are entirely gilt. Hence it is that the Lamasery has acquired the name
of Sera, from the Thibetian word _ser_, which signifies gold. In the
chief of these three temples, they religiously preserve the famous
tortche, or sanctifying instrument, which, in the belief of the
Buddhists, came from India through the air, to place itself, if its own
accord, in the monastery of Sera. This instrument is of bronze, in form
resembling a pestle; the middle, by which you hold it, is in one piece,
and cylindrical; the two extremities swell out in oval form, and are
covered with symbolical figures. Every Lama must possess a small
_tortche_, made on the model of that which marvellously came from India.
When they repeat their prayers, and during the religious ceremonies, this
instrument is indispensable to them: they must sometimes hold it,
sometimes lay it on their knees; then take hold of it again, and turn it
in their hand, according to the rules of the ritual. The _tortche_ of
Sera is the object of great veneration. The pilgrims never fail to go
and prostrate themselves before the niche, wherever it lies. At the new
year's festival, it is carried in procession, with great pomp, to
Lha-Ssa, to be presented to the adoration of the people of the town.

While the innumerable Lamas of Lha-Ssa-Morou were celebrating with
transport their noisy festival, we, our hearts oppressed with sorrow,
were occupied in the preparation for departure. We took down the little
chapel wherein we had tasted such sweet, but alas, too short,
consolation. After having essayed to plough and sow a poor little corner
of this immense desert, we were obliged to abandon it, saying to
ourselves that shortly, no doubt, the briar and the thorn would spring
forth in abundance, and suffocate those preci