ord, with
an agility only to be compared with that of cats or monkeys. Sometimes,
when they have reached the top, they fling out their arms as if about to
swim, and let themselves slide down the rope with the velocity of an
arrow. The inhabitants of the province of Ssang are reputed the most
skilful in this kind of exercise.
The most singular thing we observed at Lha-Ssa, during the new year's
festival, is what the Thibetians call the Lha-Ssa-Morou, that is, the
total invasion of the town, and its environs, by innumerable bands of
Lamas. The Lha-Ssa-Morou commences on the third day of the first moon.
All the Buddhist monasteries of the province of Oui open their doors to
their numerous inhabitants, and you see great bodies of Lamas, on foot,
on horseback, on asses, on oxen, and carrying their prayer-books and
cooking utensils, arriving tumultuously by all the roads leading to
Lha-Ssa. The town is soon overwhelmed at all points, by these avalanches
of Lamas, pouring from all the surrounding mountains. Those who cannot
get lodgings in private houses, or in public edifices, encamp in the
streets and squares, or pitch their little travelling tents in the
country. The Lha-Ssa-Morou lasts six entire days. During this time, the
tribunals are closed, the ordinary course of justice is suspended, the
ministers and public functionaries lose in some degree their authority,
and all the power of the government is abandoned to this formidable army
of Buddhist monks. There prevails in the town an inexpressible disorder
and confusion. The Lamas run through the streets in disorderly bands,
uttering frightful cries, chanting prayers, pushing one another about,
quarrelling, and sometimes having furious contests with their fists.
Although the Lamas generally show little reserve or modesty during these
festive days, it is not to be supposed that they go to Lha-Ssa merely to
indulge in amusements incompatible with their religious character; it is
devotion, on the contrary, which is their chief motive. Their purpose is
to implore the blessing of the Tale-Lama, and to make a pilgrimage to the
celebrated Buddhist monastery called Morou, which occupies the centre of
the town. Hence the name of Lha-Ssa-Morou given to these six festive
days.
The monastery of Morou is remarkable for the splendour and wealth
displayed in its temples. The order and neatness which always prevail
here, make it, as it were, the model and example for the
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