humble extraction, he
had raised himself gradually, and by his own merits, to the dignity of
First Kalon. This had occurred three years before. Up to that time he
had always fulfilled arduous and laborious [Picture: The Regent of
Lha-Ssa] functions; he had frequently traversed, in all directions, the
immense regions of Thibet, either to make war or to negotiate with the
neighbouring states, or to inspect the conduct of the Houtouktou
governors of the various provinces. So active, so busy a life, so
apparently incompatible with study, had not prevented him from acquiring
a profound knowledge of Lamanesque works.

Everyone concurred in saying that the knowledge of the most renowned
Lamas was inferior to that of the Regent. The facility with which he
conducted public business was matter of especial admiration. One day we
were with him, when they brought him a great many rolls of paper,
dispatches from the provinces; a sort of secretary unrolled them one
after the other, and gave them to him to read, bending on one knee. The
Regent hastily ran his eye over them, without interrupting the
conversation with us. As soon as he had gathered the contents of a
dispatch, he took his bamboo stile, and wrote his orders at the bottom of
the roll, and thus transacted all his affairs with promptitude, and as if
for amusement. We are not competent to judge of the literary merit that
was attributed to the First Kalon. We can only say that we never saw
Thibetian writing so beautiful as his.

The Regent was very fond of engaging in religious discussions, and they
most frequently formed the subject of our conversations. At the
commencement, he said to us these remarkable words:--"All your long
journeys you have undertaken solely with a religious object. You are
quite right, for religion is the thing most essential to man. I see that
the French and the Thibetians have the same view on that subject. We do
not at all resemble the Chinese, who hold the soul of no account; yet
your religion is not the same as ours. It is important we should
ascertain which is the true one. Let us, then, examine both carefully
and sincerely; if yours is right, we will adopt it; how could we refuse
to do so? If, on the contrary, ours is the true religion, I believe you
will have the good sense to follow it." This arrangement seemed to us
excellent; we could not at the time desire better.

We commenced with Christianity. The Regent, always amiable