ter together as they recede from
the sea-board, compressing the flats into narrow valleys, and finally
extinguishing them altogether. The hills themselves barren, with
patches here and there of Chinese cultivation and fir plantations, the
first I have seen in China. Turn your eyes to the sea, and you have
before you innumerable islands dotting its surface, the same in
character, though smaller in size, than that on which you are
standing. I have seldom seen a more delightful spot. In going on our
walk, we passed by the burying-ground of the British who died while we
occupied the island, and we did something to put order among their
neglected graves. On our return, we passed by a cottage where an old
lady was seated at her spinning-wheel. I entered. She received us most
courteously, placed chairs for us, and immediately set to work to
prepare tea. When she found that one of the party was a doctor, a son
(grown up) was produced who was suffering from ague. We brought him on
board, and gave him some quinine. He showed us the medicine he was
taking. It appeared to be a sort of mash of bits of bamboo and all
sorts of vegetable ingredients. The doctor who tried it said it had no
taste. I should mention that at the landing-place we met some of the
French, missionary's boys, who brought me a present of eggs and fowls
and salad from the farm, in return for a dollar which I gave them
yesterday to buy cakes withal.

[Sidenote: Potou.]
[Sidenote: Bonzes.]

_March 23rd._--We set off this morning to visit Potou.[4] After
lauding on the beach, we proceeded along a spacious paved path to a
monastery, in a very picturesque spot under the grey granite hills. We
entered the buildings, which were like all other Buddhistic temples
--the same images, &c.--and were soon surrounded by crowds of the most
filthy and miserable-looking bonzes, some clad in grey and some in
yellow. All were very civil, however, and on the invitation of the
superior--who had a much more intelligent look than the rest--we went
into an apartment at the side of the temple and had some tea. After a
short rest we proceeded on our way, and mounted a hill about 1,500
feet in height, passing by some more temples on the way. I never saw
human beings apparently in a lower condition than these bonzes, though
some of the temples were under re