Djokjakarta being but twelve miles from the Indian Ocean, the heat is
never oppressive, and the breezes from sea and mountain produce an
agreeable temperature, as I found one morning, much to my delight. The
bazars were not enticing, but there were various attractive articles for
sale at the hotel,--cardcases made with tiny feathers, portemonnaies,
woven baskets, and, above all, sarongs, the product of a large factory
near by, which has been fostered by English and Dutch women as a kind of
philanthropy for the teaching and employment of girls, as the
"manageress" at the hotel explained to us. These sarongs are four and a
half yards long by one and one-half wide, the fabric, though heavier,
being similar to calico. The patterns are quite artistic, and the
process of designing, drawing, stamping, and weaving is complicated.

The Water Castle was formerly like a summer-house in an Oriental garden,
with its underground chambers and all manner of appliances for luxurious
ease. It has now fallen into decay; the aqueducts and fountains are
stilled; the statues are covered with moss, and the gardens are a
perfect tangle. It was the device of a Portuguese architect of a century
ago.

The streets were less crowded in Djokjakarta than one would expect in a
city which ranks the fifth in Java; everywhere there were groups of
really happy-faced children, and mothers looking like mere girls, with
infants carried usually on the left hip, sometimes in a sling over the
shoulders. In Java, as in other countries we have visited, there is no
middle-aged class among the women; they are either young or old,
although in reality not old. One is considerably handicapped in Java
unless Dutch or the dialect can be spoken, for, in learning from others
the true inwardness of things, we are powerless without language,
however much we might supply certain physical needs by the use of
pantomime.

* * * * *

MAOS, _February 25th_: At 2 P.M. on the 25th of February, we took the
train for Maos, in order to break the long railway journey to Batavia.
The ride of three and a half hours carried us through the same
diversified landscape of fertile fields or plains of rice, palms, and
bamboo, with mountains in the distance. One feature, however, deserves
special mention; it was a country roadway, visible at frequent intervals
for at least two hours, and lined on each side with tall trees which met
in many arches. This was evid