od to adopt is seen at Fig. 6. Here we have supported the
joint by rearing up against the wall a couple of pieces of batten, one
at each end of the board, thus supporting it throughout its entire width
until the glue is thoroughly set. The two or more pieces of timber in a
butt joint adhere by crystallisation of the glue and atmospheric
pressure. A well-fitted joint made with good quality glue is so strong
that, when boards of 3 feet and upwards are jointed together by this
method, the timber in most cases will break with the grain sooner than
part at the joint.

Butt joints may be cramped up, if desired, and it is customary to warm
them as previously stated. In the absence of the usual iron cramp, the
amateur may make an excellent wooden arrangement out of any odd pieces of
timber that happen to be handy. Two blocks of hardwood are screwed on the
base board at a suitable distance for the work in hand; the boards to be
jointed are glued and placed in position between the blocks; and the two
hardwood wedges are inserted and hammered in opposite directions to each
other, thus exerting the desired pressure. An example of this method of
cramping is shown in Fig. 25, which also indicates the use of iron
"dogs."

When jointing, care should be taken to first plane up the boards true on
one side--_i.e._, take them out of winding. The method of testing for
this is shown at Fig. 9, and it may with advantage be used when jointing
the edges of the boards. Two laths or strips of wood are planed up to
exactly the same width, having their edges straight and parallel. One
edge of each lath may, if desired, be bevelled a little. The method of
using these "twist sticks" or "winding laths" is to put them on the board
as indicated, and sight along their top edges. The winding laths, being
much longer than the width of the board, show up the irregularity greatly
pronounced.

THE TOOLS generally used for making the butt joints are:--

The jack plane, for roughing the edges, etc.

The wooden trying plane (or iron jointing plane) for trueing up the work.

The try square for testing purposes.

The winding laths and straight edge.

THE METHOD OF WORK is as follows: Each board is in turn put in the vice
and planed straight lengthwise; it is then tested with winding laths and
a try square (the latter method is shown at Fig. 22).

[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Testing Surface with Winding Laths.]

The boards are then put on the top of one anot