d the hinge with one or two thicknesses of good stiff brown
paper. For packing purposes such as this paper will be found to be of
much more value than thin strips of wood or knife-cut veneer, the latter
always having a great tendency to split when a screw or bradawl is
inserted.

A stop-bound door is the name applied when the door is not finished to
exactly the same thickness as originally intended. This causes the door
to bind on the stops at the back, as shown at Fig. 221. The difficulty
may be remedied by thinning the door a little at the back, or slightly
rounding away the portion which binds.

Screw-bound is a common fault often overlooked by the amateur. It is
caused by using screws of which the heads are too large for the
countersunk holes in the hinge, and may be avoided by slightly sinking
the holes in the brasswork with a countersink or rose-bit.

[Illustration: Fig. 221.--Stop-bound Door.]

[Illustration: Fig. 222.--Butt Hinge.]

[Illustration: Fig. 223.--Gauging.]

[Illustration: Fig. 224.--Marking for Recess.]

[Illustration: Fig. 225.--Sawing for the Recess.]

ALIGNMENT.--Another fault that is fairly common is having the axes of the
hinges out of alignment. Especially is this the case when three hinges
are used to hang a wardrobe or other large door. It is absolutely
necessary in all cases that the exact centres of the pivot-pins of the
hinges should be in a straight line.

Particular attention to alignment is necessary when the body and the door
frame are shaped on the face side. A familiar example that every reader
may inspect for himself is the curved side of a railway carriage body and
railway carriage door, where he will notice that a specially wide hinge
has to be used at the bottom of the door to give the necessary alignment.
Hinges fixed on work with their centres out of truth are often overlooked
by the inexperienced worker, and this is a frequent cause of creaking.

GAUGING.--Fig. 222 is a sketch of a brass butt hinge, open. Fig. 223
illustrates a similar hinge closed, and shows the gauge set so that the
point of the marker is exactly to the centre of the pivot-pin. This
distance we will call C. Now turn to Fig. 224. The distance C has been
gauged from the face side of the frame. The gauge is then set to the
thickness of the hinge at its thickest portion, and to prevent
"hinge-bind" see that the gauge is set on the _fine_ side. Remember that
the tapered point of the steel spur or marki