th the pins and the tails of exactly the same size. The
reason is obvious after an inspection of Fig. 314, which shows the
position in which the pieces are held during the machining operations. In
spite of a certain amount of prejudice they are satisfactory and
thoroughly reliable and have their place in modern shop and office
fittings.

[Illustration: Fig. 312.--Machine-made Drawer Front and Side, Apart.]

[Illustration: Fig. 313.--The Parts Together.]

[Illustration: Fig. 314.--Position when Machined.]

DOVETAIL GROOVING

The dovetail housing joint should first be carefully marked out with a
marking knife, so as to cut across the fibres of the wood. For obtaining
the bevel on the edge of the wood a joiner's bevel may be used, and the
angle should not be too acute. (See previous chapter.) Take a chisel and
pare away a small channel as at A, Fig. 315, to form a small shoulder to
guide the saw.

[Illustration: Fig. 315.--Paring away Channel for Dovetail Grooving.]

With a fine tenon or dovetail saw, cut the saw kerf as at Fig. 316. If
any difficulty is experienced in cutting the kerf true and square, you
may resort to the method shown at C, Fig. 315; a small temporary piece of
timber has been screwed on the top of the work to form a guide for the
saw.

[Illustration: Fig. 316.--Cutting the Saw Kerf.]

[Illustration: Fig. 317.--Old Woman's Tooth Plane.]

[Illustration: Fig. 318.--Guide Block for Bevelling.]

Fig. 315, B, shows the small channel formed by the chisel prior to the
sawing operation. The sawing of the bevelled side is worked in a similar
manner; but occasionally we find amateurs who adopt the method shown at
Fig. 318. A block of wood (H) is first made by boring a 1-1/4-in. hole
through its entire length, and afterwards making a saw cut at the desired
bevel. The object of this block, which is kept specially for the purpose,
is to form a guide for those who have not full control of the dovetail
saw; the back of the saw clears the hole, and the required bevel is
obtained. When a saw cut has been made at each side of the groove, the
surplus timber is pared away in the following manner: Cut away portion E,
Fig. 319; then cut away portion F, and lastly cut away the apex portion
marked G. Continue by this method of paring until the approximate depth
is reached. To ensure a correct depth throughout the entire groove, the
router plane (or, as it is often called, "the old woman's tooth plane,"
Fig.