wn at B; draw from
the line to the edge, as shown, and saw and plane to a finish. The
diagonals of a square give 45 degrees, and this is the method used to
mark out the work. The end of the wood must, of course, be square with
its edges before marking out in this manner.

[Illustration: Fig. 327.--"Donkey's Ear" Shooting Board.]

[Illustration: Fig. 328.--Gauging for Mitres.]

[Illustration: Fig. 329.--Narrow Inner Moulding.]

[Illustration: Fig. 330.--Wide Mitred Moulding.]

Fig. 329 shows a bevelled framing into which has been mitred a narrow
moulding M so as to show a correct margin around the panel.

[Illustration: Fig. 331.--Door with Curved Mitres.]

[Illustration: Fig. 332.--Method of Setting out for a Curved Mitre.]

Fig. 330 shows a similar framing, but with a wide moulding M mitred
around it. To obtain a correct intersection of this moulding, the angles
A and B are bisected. The bisection of the angles meets before the width
of the moulding is cleared, therefore the angle C will again have to be
bisected, and the finished joint will appear as shown. One of the
simplest of mouldings with a large flat face has been chosen to
illustrate this. The moulding could be all in one width, as shown, or it
could be built into the framing in separate pieces, the wide flat and the
piece carrying the mould.

CURVED MITRES.--We now come to what are probably the most difficult of
all mitres, viz., curved mitres, and the writer well remembers in his
apprenticeship days his first experience of attempting to fit the
mouldings around the door shown at Fig. 331 by using straight mitres at
A. This, of course, is impossible if the mouldings are of the same
section and it is desired to make all the members correctly intersect. If
straight mitres are used the section of the curved moulding will have to
be of a different shape from the section of the straight moulding, and in
these days of machine-made mouldings this method is seldom resorted to.
It is better, cheaper, and easier to make curved mitres when the
necessary machinery is at hand.

TO SET OUT A CURVED MITRE (see Fig. 332).--Draw a section of the moulding
full size, A, as shown at the left hand of the illustration, and project
lines round the framing, as shown V, W, X, Y and Z. Where the lines V, W,
X, Y and Z intersect at the corner D, it clearly shows that a straight
mitre will not cut all the points of intersection. A curved line will cut
all the intersections, a