119 indicates the building up of a double skirting mould. C
represents the brickwork, A the oak-framed panelling, and B the packing
and fixing block. A wide skirting of this type is made in two portions
for convenience in working the moulding and to prevent undue shrinkage.

[Illustration: Fig. 116.--Cramping a Tongued and Grooved Mitre.]

[Illustration: Fig. 117.--Working a Groove.]

[Illustration: Fig. 118.--Corner Joint with Corner Mould.]

Fig. 120 illustrates the use of a tongued and grooved joint for fixing
together the sides of a corner bracket, and the same method holds good
when jointing a corner cupboard. A capping mould or top shelf will
conceal the joint; it then has the appearance of a glued butt joint, but
is of course considerably stronger. No screws or nails are required if
this joint be used.

PLOUGHING.--When grooves have to be worked in the edge or face of a board
to receive tongues, the process is generally called ploughing, and it is
usually accomplished by a special tool called a plough (or, as it is
occasionally spelt, "plow"). When a plough plane is bought it is usual to
procure eight plough bits or blades of various sizes to fit the plane. In
Fig. 121 is given the sketch of a plough plane with the names of the
various parts lettered thereon.

[Illustration: Fig. 119.--Double Skirting Mould.]

[Illustration: Fig. 120.--Joint for Corner Bracket or Cupboard.]

The board or boards which it is desired to groove are first planed
straight and true, exactly as though it were desired to make a glued or
butt joint. One of the boards is now placed edge way up in the vice and
with the face side to the worker.

Take the plough plane and select a suitably-sized blade; fix it in the
plane in the usual way, allowing the cutting edge to project beyond the
steel skate about 1/32 in., and securely drive up the wedge. Next loosen
the small boxwood wedges at the side of each stem, and adjust the plane
by tapping the stems with a hammer until the cutting iron is in the
desired position; then knock up the small wedges nice and tight. When
setting the fence to or from the blade it is a wise precaution to measure
the distance from the fence to the skate at each end of the plane; this
will ensure the skate being parallel to the fence. The neglect of this is
a source of annoyance to many amateurs. Now adjust the depth stop by
turning the screw at the top of the plane, measuring the depth of the
required groove f