tion were invited to a _dejeuner a la fourchette_ by Admiral
Kawamura, minister of marine. This entertainment had an interest for
us because we were here for the first time received into a Japanese
home. I sat at table by the side of Lady Kawamura. Even the children
were present at the entertainment. Lady Kawamura was dressed in the
Japanese fashion, tastefully but very plainly, if we except a heavy
gold chain encircling the waist. In other respects the entertainment
was arranged according to the European mode, with a succession of
dishes and wines, both in abundance, according to the laws of
gastronomy. When it was over our host offered us an airing in a
carriage, during which I rode with the lady and one of the children,
a little girl about ten years of age, who would have been very
beautiful if she had not been disfigured, in the eyes of Europeans,
by the thick white paint that was evenly spread over her whole face,
and gave it a sickly appearance. Lady Kawamura herself was not
painted, nor was she disfigured with blackened teeth. Most of the
married women of Japan are accustomed after marriage to blacken
their formerly dazzlingly white teeth, but it is to be hoped that
this unpleasant custom will soon disappear, as the women of
distinction have begun to abandon it. During this excursion we
visited, among other places, the graves of the Tycoons, the imperial
garden, and a very remarkable exhibition in the capital.

A number of the Tycoons, or, as they are more correctly called,
Shoguns, are buried in Tokio. Their place of sepulture is one of the
most remarkable memorials of Old Japan. The graves are in a temple
which is divided into several courts, surrounded by walls and
connected with each other by beautiful gates. The first of these
courts is ornamented with more than two hundred stone lanterns,
presented to the temple by the feudal princes of the country, the
name of the giver and the date at which it was given being inscribed
on each. Some of these peculiar memorials are only half-finished,
perhaps an evidence of the sudden close of the power of the Shoguns
and the feudal princes in Japan. In another of the temple courts are
to be seen lanterns of bronze, partly gilt, presented by other
feudal princes. A third court is occupied by a temple, a splendid
memorial of the old Japanese architecture, and of the antique method
of adorning their sanctuaries with wooden carvings, gilding, and
varnishing. The temple aboun