a life which, according to European standards of morality, is not
very commendable. When the time fixed in the agreement has passed,
they return to their homes and marry, without having sunk in any way
in the estimation of their relatives. But those are unfortunate who,
in any of the towns that are not yet opened to foreigners, carry on
a love intrigue with a European. They are then openly pointed out,
even in the newspapers, as immoral, and their respectability is
helplessly gone. Formerly they were even in such cases severely
punished.

[Illustration: JAPANESE LADY AT HER TOILETTE. ]

All women of the lower classes, and even most of the higher, wear
the Japanese dress. The more distinguished ladies are often
exceedingly beautiful, they have in particular beautiful necks.
Unfortunately they are often disfigured by paint, for which the
ladies here appear to have a strong liking. The dress of the younger
women, even among the poor, is carefully attended to; it is not
showy but tasteful, and nearly the same for all classes. Their
manners are very attractive and agreeable. The women of the upper
classes already begin to take part in the social life of the
Europeans, and all European gentlemen and ladies with whom I have
conversed on this point agree in stating that there is no difficulty
in the way of a Japanese woman leaving the narrow circle to which
she was formerly confined, and entering with pleasure and womanly
dignity into European society. She appears to be born "a lady."

On the 20th and 21st September the Governor of Yokohama had arranged
an excursion for me, Dr. Stuxberg, and Lieut. Nordquist, to the
sacred island or peninsula Enoshima, situated at a short distance
from the town. We first travelled some English miles along the
excellent road Tokaido, one of the few highways in Japan passable in
carriages. Then we travelled in _jinrikishas_ to the famous image of
Buddha (Daibutsu) at Kamakura[374], and visited the Shinto chief
priest living in the neighbourhood and his temple.

The priest was fond of antiquities, and had a collection, not very
large indeed, but composed almost entirely of rarities. Among other
things he showed us sabres of great value, a head ornament
consisting of a single piece of nephrite which he valued at 500
_yen_,[373] a number of old bronzes, mirrors, &c. We were received
as usual with Japanese tea and sweetmeats. The priest himself took
us round his temple. No images were to be seen