urpassed in style and execution.

It is not very many years ago since the men who belonged to the
_samurai_ class never showed themselves abroad without being armed
with two swords. Even schoolboys went armed to the first European
schools that were established in the country. This gave occasion to
several acts of violence during the time which succeeded the opening
of the ports, for which reason the European ambassadors some years
after requested that carrying the sword in time of peace should be
prohibited. To this the Japanese government answered that it would
make short work with the minister who should publish such a
prohibition. Soon after, however, it gave _permission_ to those who
desired it to go without weapons, and the carrying of arms soon
became so unfashionable that one of the authorities did dare at last
to issue a distinct prohibition of it. During our stay in Japan,
accordingly, we did not see a single man armed with the two swords
formerly in use.

After we had seen and admired the treasures in the temple vestibule,
we visited the temple itself. This is always of wood, richly
ornamented with carvings and gilding. If it is dedicated to Shinto,
there are no images in it, and very few ornaments, if we except a
mirror and a large locked press with the doors smashed in, which
sometimes occupies the wall opposite the entrance, and in which, as
I have already stated, the spirit of the deity is said to dwell. The
Shinto temples are in general poor. Many are so inconsiderable as to
look almost like dovecotes. They are often completely deserted, so
that it is difficult to discover them among the magnificent trees by
which they were surrounded. The entrance to the temple is indicated
by a gate (_torryi_) of wood, stone, or copper, and here and there
are ropes, stretched over the way, to which written prayers and vows
are affixed.

Even those who have long studied Japan and its literature have very
little knowledge of the inner essence of Shintoism. This religion is
considered by some a pure deism, by others a belief with political
aims, the followers of which worship the departed heroes of the
country. Of a developed morality this religion is wholly devoid. In
the same way it appears to be uncertain whether Shintoism is a
survival of the original religion of the country or whether it has
been brought from abroad.

[Illustration: GATE ACROSS THE ROAD TO A SHINTO TEMPLE. ]

Buddhism was introduced from China