they were everywhere overgrown with
coffee bushes, or possibly with cinchona plants. The
mountain slopes were so laid bare from the bottom all the
way up that scarce a tree was left in sight; everywhere so
far as the eye could reach only coffee.

"Next day, attended by a Singhalese, I went, or to speak
more correctly, climbed farther up the steep coffee
plantations. At a height of 1,300 metres above the sea
coffee ceases to grow, and we now found some not very
extensive tea plantations, and above these the primitive
forest commences. At a height of 1,900 metres above the sea
there is an extensive open plateau. Up here there is a not
inconsiderable place, Novara Elliya, where the governor has
a residence, and part of the troops are in barracks during
the summer heat. One of the mountains which surround this
plateau is Pedrotalagalla, the loftiest mountain of Ceylon,
which reaches a height of 2,500 metres above the sea.

"I have ascended not so few mountains, but of none has the
ascent been so easy as of this, for a broad footpath ran
all the way to the top. Without this path the ascent had
been impossible, for an hour's time would have been
required for every foot made good through the jungle, so
closely is the ground under the lofty trees covered to the
top of the mountain with bushes, creepers, or the bamboo.
In the evening I returned to my former night-quarters,
where I slept well after a walk of thirty-six English
miles.

"As I felt myself altogether unable the following day to
make any further excursion on foot, I travelled back to
Peradeniya by mail-coach. During this journey I had as my
travelling companion a Singhalese, whom it was a special
pleasure to see at close quarters. One of his big toes was
ornamented with a broad ring of silver, both his ears were
pierced above, and provided with some pendulous ornament,
and one side of the nose was likewise perforated, in order
that at that place too might he adorn himself with a piece
of grandeur. On his head he had, like all Singhalese, a
comb by which the hair drawn right upwards is kept in
position, as little girls at home are wont to have their
hair arranged. As the man did not appear to know a word of
English, it was impossible to enter into any closer
acquaintance with him.

"At noon on t