e buildings there are several small ones, of which
one was intended to protect the Emperor-deity during earthquakes,
the others formed play-places for the company of grown children who
were then permitted to govern the country.

[Illustration: BUDDHIST PRIEST. ]

Much more remarkable and instructive than the now deserted imperial
palace are the numerous temples at Kioto, of which we visited
several. We were generally received by the priests in a large
vestibule, whose floor was covered with a fine woollen carpet and
was provided with tables and chairs of European patterns. The
priests first offered us Japanese tea, cigars, and sweetmeats, then
we examined some valuable articles exhibited in the room, consisting
of bronzes, works in the noble metals, splendid old lacquer work,
and a number of famous swords dedicated to the temple. These were
the only things that our freethinking Governor treated with
reverence, for the rest neither the priests nor their reliques
seemed to inspire him with any particular respect.

[Illustration: A SAMURAI. ]

When a valuable Japanese sword is exhibited one touches neither the
hilt nor the scabbard, and of course still less the blade, with the
bare hand, but it is taken hold of either with a gloved hand, or
with the hand with a handkerchief or piece of cloth wrapped round
it. The blade is only half bared, the steel setting is looked at
against the light and admired; on the often exceedingly valuable
blades which are not mounted, but only provided with a wooden case
to protect them from rust, the maker's mark is examined, and so on.
As among us in former times, the swordsmith's is the only handicraft
which in old times was held in high esteem in Japan, and immense
sums were often paid for sword-blades forged by famous masters of
the art. Among old Japanese writings are to be found many works
specially treating of the making of weapons. But since the swordsmen
(_samurai_) have now been forbidden to show themselves armed, old
Japanese swords are sold in all the towns by hundreds and thousands,
often for a trifle. During our stay in the country I purchased for a
comparatively limited sum a fine collection of such weapons. Even
those who cannot appreciate the artistic forging of the blade, the
steel-setting, and tempering, must admire the exceedingly tasteful
casting and embossing of the ornamentation, especially of the
guard-plates of the sword. They are often veritable works of art,
uns