f
which we are so proud.

The large Japanese theatres, besides, often resemble the European
ones in their interior arrangement. The partition between the stage
and the space occupied by the spectators is the same as among us.
Between the acts the former is concealed by a curtain. The stage is
besides provided with painted scenes representing houses, woods,
hills, &c., supported on wheels, so that a complete change of scene
can be effected in a few moments. The music has the same place
between the stage and the spectators as at home. The latter, as at
home, are distributed partly in a gently rising amphitheatre, partly
in several tiers of boxes rising one above another, the lowest tier
being considered the principal one. The Japanese do not sit in the
same way as we do. Neither the amphitheatre nor the boxes
accordingly are provided with chairs or benches, but are divided
into square compartments one or two feet deep, each intended for
about four persons. They sit on cushions, squatting cross-legged in
the common Japanese fashion. The compartments are divided by broad
cross beams, which form the passages by which the spectators get to
their places. During the play we saw attendants running about with
tea, _saki_, tobacco pipes, and small braziers. For every one smokes
during the acts, and places himself in his crib as comfortably as
possible. The piece is followed with great attention, favourite
actors and favourite passages being saluted with lively applause.
Even women and children visit the theatre, and I have seen the
former give their children suck without the least discomposure among
thousands of spectators. Besides the plays intended for the public,
there are given also a number of other dramatic representations, as
society plays, peculiar family plays intended for the homes of the
old feudal princes, spectacles got up for the Mikado, and some which
have a half religious significance, &c.

On the evening of the 5th October we came to Takasaki, prepared to
start immediately for Tokio. But though the messenger we sent had
duly executed his commission, horses could not be procured before
midnight. We passed the evening with our former host, who at our
first visit received us so unwillingly, but now with great
friendliness. We would easily have reconciled ourselves to the
delay, for a Japanese small town such as Takasaki has much worth
seeing to offer a European, but a great part of the time was wasted
in fruitles