ns to
pass between steep uncultivated hills, overgrown with tall, uncut,
withered grass, separated by valleys in which run purling rivulets,
nearly concealed by exceedingly luxuriant bushy thickets. Ikaho is
celebrated for the warm, or more correctly hot, springs which well
up from the volcanic hills which surround the little town, which is
beautifully situated on a slope. As at the baths of Europe, invalids
seek here a remedy for their ailments, and the town therefore
consists almost exclusively of hotels, baths, and shops for the
visitors. The baths are situated, partly in large open wooden sheds,
where men and women bathe together without distinction, partly in
private houses. In every bath there is a basin one metre in depth,
to which a constant stream of water is conducted from some of the
hot springs. The spring water has of course cooled very much before
it is used, but is still so hot notwithstanding that I could only
with difficulty remain in it a couple of seconds.

In the streets of the town we often met blind persons who walked
about very safely without any attendant, only feeling their way with
a long bamboo. They blew a short pipe now and then to warn
passers-by of their presence. I thought at first that these
unfortunates were trying to regain the sight of the eye at the hot
springs, but on inquiring whether the water was beneficial in that
respect, I was informed that they were not there as seekers after
health, but as "massageurs" (shampooers). Massage has been in use in
Japan for several centuries back, and therefore persons are often to
be met with in the streets offering their services as massageurs,
crying in the streets in about the same way as the fruit-sellers in
Russia.

The inn where we lodged for the night, consisted as usual of a
number of very clean rooms covered with mats, without furniture, but
ornamented with songs and mottoes on the walls. One would live here
exceedingly well, if like the Japanese he could manage to live
wholly on the floor and conform carefully to the indispensable
rules, an observance which besides is necessary, because otherwise
the inmate is exposed to a very unfriendly reception not only from
his host but also from the attendants. An inconvenience in
travelling in Japan is the difficulty a European has in accustoming
himself to the dietary of the Japanese. Bread they do not use, nor
meat, but their food consists mainly of rice and fish, with fowls,
fruit, mushro