ross drawn on a sandy area. He was considered
the victor who threw the other to the ground or forced him beyond
the circle. A special judge decided in doubtful cases. The beginning
of the contest was most peculiar, the combatants kneeling in the
middle of the circle and sharply eying each other in order to make
the attack at a signal given by the judge, when a single push might
at once make an end of the contest. In this competition there took
part about a dozen young men, all well grown, who in their turn
stepped with some encouraging cries or gestures into the circle in
order to test their powers. The spectators consisted of old men and
women, and boys and girls of all ages. Most of them were clean and
well-dressed, and had a very attractive appearance.

[Illustration: JAPANESE WRESTLERS. ]

Here it was the youth of the village themselves that took part in
the contest. But there are also in Japan persons who carry on these
games as their occupation, and exhibit themselves for money. They
are in general very fat, as appears from the accompanying drawing,
which represents the beginning of the contest, when both the
combatants are still watching to get a good hold.

[Illustration: JAPANESE BRIDGE. After a Japanese drawing. ]

Next day, the 1st October, we continued our journey to Kusatsu. The
road was uphill for a distance of 550 metres, downhill for nearly as
far, then up again, and ran often without any protecting fence past
deep abysses, or over high bridges of the most dangerous
construction. It was, therefore, impossible for any wheeled vehicle
to traverse it, so that we had to use in some cases _kagos_, in
others riding-horses. Unfortunately the Japanese high saddle does
not suit the European, and if the traveller prefers a riding-horse
to a _kago_, he must, if he does not carry a saddle with him,
determine to ride on an unsaddled horse, which, with the wretched
steeds that are only available here, soon becomes so unpleasant that
he at last prefers to let his legs hang benumbed from the _kago_. A
peculiarity in Japan is that the rider seldom himself guides his
horse. It is commonly led by a halter by a groom running alongside
the rider. These grooms are very light-footed and enduring, so that
even at a rapid pace they are not left behind. Running footmen also
attend the carriages of people of distinction in the towns and the
mail-coaches on Nakasendo. When there is a crowd before the carriage
they jump down an