After our entrance he still turned
to the police official with the cry of lamentation: "Must I then
actually receive these barbarians?" But we had our revenge in a
noble way. We took off our boots before we entered the room, were so
profuse with talk, civilities, and bows, and on the whole behaved in
such a courteous fashion, that our previously distracted host not
only bade us welcome back, but also gave us a letter of introduction
to the innkeepers at an inn where we were to stay next, declaring
that if we showed this letter we need not fear any such disagreeable
adventure as that just described.

Most of the houses in the Japanese towns are built of pretty thin,
carefully joined timbers. But besides these there are to be seen
here and there small houses with very thick walls, windows provided
with heavy iron gratings, and doors that could be fastened with
large locks and bolts. These houses are fire-resisting, and are used
as storehouses for valuables and household articles when there is
danger of fire. Fires are so common in Japan that it is supposed
that a tenth part of every town is burned down yearly. The fireman
corps is numerous, well ordered from old times, its members bold and
daring. During our stay overnight at Takasaki we were lodged in such
a fireproof house, in very large clean apartments with the floor
partly covered with carpets after the European pattern. The walls
were very thick and of brick, the interior fittings and stairs on
the other hand of wood.

I have just mentioned that we were compelled to resort to the police
in order to obtain quarters for the night. Policemen are numerous in
Japan, both in town and country. For the most part they are taken
from the former _samurai_ class. They are clothed in the European
style, and walk, with a long stick in a certain position under the
arm, quietly and calmly on the streets and roads, without, except in
cases of necessity, making any show of their authority. Commonly
they are, or appear to be, young, and all have a gentlemanlike
appearance. In a word, they appear to be equal to the best European
police of the present day, and stand immeasurably above the guardian
of the peace, or rather the raiser of dispeace, as he appeared some
decades ago on the European continent. During the latest revolt the
police were employed by the Government as infantry, and elicited
general admiration by the fire, the gallantry, and the contempt of
death with which they w